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Fall/Winter 2010

Healdsburg’s Pop-Up Restaurant

Tendejón de la Calle brings local farmers and food lovers together.

by Sarah Sung

Chef Mateo Granados has been moving progressively toward more casual, mobile venues, beginning with his time at Masa’s and days at Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Kitchen, to serving as the anchor of the Healdsburg farmers market, dishing out tamales and lamb chorizo hash with duck eggs from a pop-up kitchen every Saturday. So, it follows that the Yucatán-born chef’s latest venture, with business partner Randy Tweedle, is Tendejón de la Calle, a roaming underground supper club, making appearances in barns, wineries, and wine warehouses throughout Healdsburg.

Tendejón de la Calle refers to a street food stall; appropriately, the locale isn’t always decided on far in advance. Depending on where the dinner takes place, Granados might set up his long tables amid wine barrels, out in a barn, or under the stars. The communal setting puts diners elbow to elbow with everyone from in-the-know out-of-towners to locals—maybe even including the goat farmer who raised the animals for the night’s dinner.

The dinners start at 5 p.m. every Wednesday and 6 p.m. every Thursday and Friday. The entire affair is “bring your own bottle” (unless it’s at a winery), and the menu changes just about every night. Options may include starters—such as crispy tacones filled with baby shrimp or the ensalada de conejo, with Jones Family’s rabbit belly—and bigger plates, such as costillas de chito, using ribs from Preston Vineyards’ goats. Granados is returning to what he calls his “butcher’s son roots,” making a point to use animals in their entirety—from nose to tail—down to the last link of chorizo. “It’s a unique opportunity in Sonoma to participate in the sustainability movement and work directly with local farmers,” he says.

Tendejón de la Calle, (707) 623-5474, approximately 60 tickets available per dinner, $35–$40.

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