You could say I’m jaded. As bad as it sounds, I’ve found that life in San
Francisco has spoiled me. I now expect greatness when I enter a
restaurant (usually, anyway). Dining out is an expensive endeavor, and anything
that falls short of living up to the end-of-the-night tab is unacceptable.
Before I’m exiled to Snob Island, I hasten that I am not alone. There are
many like me in the Bay Area – those accustomed to life surrounded
by ready access to fresh ingredients prepared by chefs who have
come from far and wide to cook with them. We’re all spoiled here, but in
Wine Country, we’re being spoiled rotten. While San Francisco – all 49 square
miles of it – is well known for its culinary prowess, there is a town in
Wine Country that gives the City By The Bay a run for its money.
Regular
visitors to Yountville know what I’m talking about. The tiny
town – basically one street – packs a bigger culinary punch that
most any other town in the California. Yes, including San Francisco.
Okay,
so, the fact that Yountville is home to one of the world’s best
restaurants (depending on the survey and the year – the best) certainly
brings the curve up a bit. But French Laundry not withstanding,
there is more to please the picky palate in Yountville than in any other
tucked-away corner of the earth.
Still, let’s start with French Laundry (6640
Washington St., 707-944-2380; www.frenchlaundry.com), where reservation
are coveted and anticipated like an inheritance from a long-lost
granny. Famed chef Thomas Keller is the star of the show, and
his innovative cooking has had food scribes waxing poetic for
more than a decade now. It’s really about the experience– one that
serious foodies should enjoy at least once in their life. So make a point
of signing up, planning the visit, and indulging in the rather exorbitant
prix-fixe menu.
Once you’ve experienced the benchmark of Yountville, the
rest is easy – though no less enjoyable. You must, however, travel
more than a couple blocks to escape Kellar’s gravitational
pull. Nearby is his charming and never-disappointing Bouchon (6534
Washington St.; 707-944-8037; www.bouchonbistro.com), which
emits a lower wattage than The Laundry, but manages all its gastronomical
satisfaction. In the style of a traditional bistro, the food is
not fussy, the service is professionally brusque, and the steak frites are
mandatory. Complete your Kellar trifecta the following morning
with a flaky-good croissant and an eye-opening cup of French roast from
Bouchon Bakery (www.bouchonbakery.com) just across the courtyard.
But Kellar
isn’t the only star in the Yountville food universe. There are
other names as ubiquitous, including Philippe Jeanty, whose Bistro
Jeanty (6510 Washington St.; 707-944-0103; www.bistrojeanty.com) is a favorite
among locals. The amiable Jeanty knows his way around French provincial
preparations and this place drips with authenticity. More recently,
he’s appealed to the carnivorous wine country diner with the excellent PJ
Steak and Seafood (6772 Washington St.; 707-945-1000;
www.pjsteak.com),
which he opened to provide a forum for pairing the region’s best wines with
top-quality well-aged meat.
Also in the Yountville orbit is Bob Hurley,
a local celeb and food-lover’s favorite whose Hurley's
Restaurant and Bar (6518 Washington St.; 707-944-2345;
www.hurleysrestaurant.com) is a reliable outpost for inspired wine country fare in a lively
come-as-you-are atmosphere. Hurley used to be in charge at
Napa Valley Grille (6795 Washington
St.; 707-944-8686; www.napavalleygrille.com) and he left the place in fine form. The Grille is still local
favorite, and it epitomizes wine country dining, with hearty
seasonal dishes and a dazzling wine list.
Another of Yountville’s
destination restaurants is the beautiful Domaine
Chandon (1 California
Dr.; 707-944-2280; www.chandon.com), the winery and hard-to-get-into restaurant
owned by Moët et Chandon, renowned for its tempting seasonal
fare and its sparkling wine.
And of course no conversation about Yountville dining is complete
without mentioning the well-known roadside restaurants, Brix (7377
St. Helena Hwy.; 707-944-2749; www.brix.com) and Mustard's
Grill (7399 St. Helena Hwy.; 707-944-2424;
www.mustardsgrill.com),
two of the most popular restaurants in all of wine country
and each worthy of the high regard.
Small
Town, Big Taste
